Having lived in South Yarra for two years, I thought I knew of and had visited every café in the immediate area. Yet when I went looking for a place to have breakfast along Toorak Road, by happenstance I discovered nestled barely twenty metres back from the busy street corner, a lush green canopy of trees which had been protecting one of the suburb’s best kept culinary secrets from my line of sight.
Cafe Gaia, South Yarra
Cafe Gaia, South Yarra
Cafe Gaia, South Yarra
Cafe Gaia, South Yarra
The café has a unique charm and ambience that reminded me of a small wooden cabin or cubby house with a covered verandah, large open windows and quiet cosy nooks to hide yourself away from the busyness of the world close by.
Cafe Gaia, South Yarra
Cafe Gaia, South Yarra
Cafe Gaia, South Yarra
The morning was unseasonably warm allowing me to retreat outside on the deck and enjoy the serenity. Although the café is extremely popular (it appears that I must be the only person in the area who wasn’t aware of its existence), the service is readily attentive and quick to ensure that your coffee order is taken and on its way. The all-day brunch menu is not overly exhaustive with only several signature dishes to focus your attention. The dish that immediately caught my eye, and to be fair probably because it was the only sweet option on the menu, was the exotic sounding Dr Marty’s Crumpets with citrus curd, aerated rhubarb mascarpone, toasted macadamia and sesame.
Dr Marty’s Crumpets with citrus curd, aerated rhubarb mascarpone, toasted macadamia and sesame – Cafe Gaia, South Yarra
If I could describe autumn on a plate, this dish would be it. The spectacular arrangement of colours, flavours and textures on the matt black plate was beautiful to behold and resembled my favourite season. My eyes were immediately drawn to the dollops of lemon curd perfectly curated on the plate and the pillows of whipped mascarpone placed beneath the crumpets.
The crumpets were deliciously moist and dense – enough to absorb all the elements on the plate. Whilst the poached rhubarb was sharp on the palate, the strawberries in comparison were sweet to taste and balanced the tart flavour of the lemon curd. The hero of the dish was the rhubarb mascarpone with the consistency of a dessert mousse and therefore a rare treat for breakfast.
Working my way through breakfast, there were morsels of macadamia and pistachio nuts and a smattering of sesame seeds interspersed beneath the crumpets to provide another textural element to the mix.
I love finding hidden treasures, especially ones with outstanding food and service and thankfully Café Gaia is no longer obscured from my view.
Over the last few months, I’ve had the privilege to get to know a fellow colleague from the United States, who has been working in Melbourne on a short-term secondment. Throughout the course of a recent long lunch at San Telmo, I learned that Naseer hadn’t had the opportunity to discover some of Melbourne’s new and exciting restaurants. With only a few days left before he was heading off home to Houston I thought we could both try something new and experience San Telmo’s sister restaurant, Pastuso.
Located in AC/DC Lane, Naseer and I arrived promptly at 7pm and were seated at a table for two near the open kitchen. The restaurant has an eclectic feel with one wall covered in vibrant neon colours and the remainder of the dining space finished with gold edging, marble topped tables, dark wooden furniture and panelling, industrial lights, concrete pylons and geometric tiles. With such an open space, the ambient noise level escalated considerably as more diners arrived.
Pastuso, Melbourne
Pastuso, Melbourne
Pastuso, Melbourne
After a very quick look at the menu, we decided to be adventurous and try the “Feed Me” chefs selection option for $59 per person. Naseer doesn’t drink alcohol but I thought I would complement the South American cuisine with the only Malbec available by the glass of from the famed Mendoza region. Being from the US, Naseer was looking for something familiar in the form of French fries, so we ordered some Yucas or Cassava Chips as an additional side dish.
Naseer K at Pastuso, Melbourne
Pastuso, Melbourne
Literally as soon as our order was taken, three starter dishes and the chips arrived simultaneously and engulfed our small table for two. The dishes were beautifully presented and looked delicious, but I couldn’t be certain whether it was the noise factor or one of our server’s extremely fast explanation of the dishes, however I had no idea of what had been deposited in front of us without looking back over the menu after the meal.
Ceviche Peruano – New Zealand Snapper with Caramelised Sweet Potato, Cancha, Leche De Tigre – Pastuso, Melbourne
El Choro Chalaco – Port Phillip Black Mussel, Chalaca Salsa served on a Seaweed Crisp – Pastuso, Melbourne
Beef Skewers – Pastuso, Melbourne
Yucas – Cassava Chips – Pastuso, Melbourne
The El Choro Chalaco (Port Phillip Black Mussel, Chalaca Salsa served on a Seaweed Crisp) was delicious with a mix of textures and flavours, particularly with the fresh salsa being a standout on the palate. The next dish was the Ceviche Peruano (New Zealand Snapper with Caramelised Sweet Potato, Cancha, Leche De Tigre) was exceptional and tasted divine although Naseer wasn’t excited by cured fish which left a little bit more for me to enjoy. The beef skewers which was served in haste and a mumbled explanation, were relatively tasty but not all that memorable. Ironically the Cassava Chips which we ordered in addition to the Feed Me menu, was a standout in terms of flavor, texture and quantity and I couldn’t stop myself from devouring them. Mmmm … the ultimate comfort food!
Naseer and I made short work of the entrée dishes expecting a flurry of new plates to arrive momentarily, however after thirty minutes had lapsed without seeing our waitress, we were then left wondering whether was that all there was. As if by magic, she then miraculously appeared and cleared our plates for the next course.
Pierna De Cordero – Slow Cooked Lamb Leg with Seco Sauce and Peruvian Rice – Pastuso, Melbourne
Pierna De Cordero – Slow Cooked Lamb Leg with Seco Sauce – Pastuso, Melbourne
The main course for the evening was the Pierna De Cordero (Slow Cooked Lamb Leg with Seco Sauce and Peruvian Rice) which I was secretly quite pleased about as it was the one dish on the menu that had caught my attention, and because I hoping to persuade Naseer on the virtues of beautiful, slow-cooked Australian lamb.
Served with the rusticity that accompanies Peruvian cuisine, the lamb had been cooked in a Cilindro Peruano (Peruvian Smoking Chamber) so it had a distinct but not obtrusive smoked flavor. The accompanying Seco sauce is made from coriander and beer, and was quite thick in texture and rather plentiful. I rather enjoyed this dish but I suspect that Naseer probably tolerated it on my behalf.
Tres Leches – Traditional Latin American Sponge Cake soaked in three kinds of milk, served with Roasted Pineapple Ice Cream – Pastuso, Melbourne
Un Clasico De Mazamorra Y Arroz Con Leche – Peruvian Style Rice Pudding, Purple Corn Gel, Poached Pineapple and Apples – Pastuso, Melbourne
Our evening seemed to gather a bit of momentum and the third and final course arrived not long thereafter. We were treated to two desserts to share – Tres Leches (Traditional Latin American Sponge Cake soaked in three kinds of milk, served with Roasted Pineapple Ice Cream) and Un Clasico De Mazamorra Y Arroz Con Leche (Peruvian Style Rice Pudding, Purple Corn Gel, Poached Pineapple and Apples).
I gravitated to the sponge cake first and then immediately wished that I hadn’t. The outsides of the cake had been grilled in an effort to caramelise the exterior layer which unfortunately hadn’t worked as it ultimately left me with a sharp burnt or charred mouthfeel, something akin to a campfire. The parts of the cake that hadn’t touched the grill were moist and mild in taste but the saving grace was the roasted pineapple ice cream to soften the blow.
The rice pudding was delicious and silky smooth in texture and taste. It was served with a large piece of meringue that needed to be crushed up and served on top of the pudding but I enjoyed each element separately.
Our allotted two hours seemed to fly by after an intermittent start and the Feed Me menu certainly left me completely full and saved me from making hard decisions about what to order. I was excited that I got to experience somewhere new to eat with a friend who also enjoyed a memorable food adventure in Melbourne, however it was a little unfortunate that Pastuso didn’t quite live up to the hype.
Today we are heading to the Mekong Delta to explore the agricultural heart of Vietnam. The skies are blue and the sun is shining, so I am excited about what the day ahead entails. Making our way outside the city, we have a scheduled visit to the Binh Tay Market in the Cholon district of HCMC. Cholon, which literally means “big market”, has been home to Chinese merchants and traders for many centuries and is essentially still a huge emporium predominantly selling wholesale goods.
Binh, our guide, takes us through the narrow market alleys and lanes to show us spices and other food specialities that are available for sale. Eventually we head into an area where stalls are selling a variety of kitchen equipment that is extremely cheap when compared to what is available back home in Melbourne, so Binh helps me to look for a couple of items that I’m interested in for my own kitchen cooking adventures.
Once I’ve finished shopping, it’s a two hour drive south from HCMC to our destination so en route we take a Vietnamese coffee break at a roadside stop that looks more like a holiday resort, obviously purpose-built to accommodate the throngs of foreign tourists visiting the region each day, but a beautiful oasis nonetheless.
This is a truck stop? Mekong Delta – Vietnam Culinary Discovery
We eventually arrive at a city with a small port to meet our boat that is patiently ready and waiting for us. It was a little precarious trying to jump across to our boat in thongs but Kylie and I made it safely, and perched ourselves in the front seats to enjoy the view and journey.
I literally felt like a queen as we moved along the mighty river, gliding past a myriad of canals and tributaries of the Mekong by boat with my feet outstretched in the glorious sunshine.
Mekong Delta cruise – Vietnam Culinary Discovery
Mekong Delta cruise – Vietnam Culinary Discovery
Mekong Delta cruise – Vietnam Culinary Discovery
Mekong Delta cruise – Vietnam Culinary Discovery
After half an hour of cruising, our boat pulls into the riverbank to visit a brick factory. The river is the life blood of Vietnam which sustains many forms of fishing, farming and transportation commerce. I initially thought that our culinary tour would include a visit to a floating market but instead our visit took us to places rarely accessible by the tourist buses. Kylie and I were able to look inside the giant beehive kilns to see where the bricks were fired after being formed with plentiful clay from nearby rice paddy fields. The leftover rice husks from the farms are then used to constantly fuel the furnace to extreme temperatures. It was fascinating to see how each industry sustains another.
The Mekong is also known to the Vietnamese as the “coconut kingdom” with thousands of people living amongst approximately 40,000 hectares of coconut trees. Our next stop along the river was to visit a another type of factory where farmers sell their coconuts to a middle man or “processor” who will transform the harvested coconuts into other types of products. Unfortunately on the day of our visit, the coconut economy took a turn for the worse and the processor couldn’t afford to take the coconuts without incurring a substantial loss. Nevertheless, the husband and wife team who process the coconuts demonstrated how the coconut flesh is separated from the hard fibrous shell – the juice is used to make coconut jelly; the white flesh is utilised to make coconut milk, or to make oil from which they make candy, or cooking oil or perfume. The coconut fibres are used for building materials while the brown coconut skin chopped off the flesh are used for fertiliser. We were able to taste a range of coconut candy made onsite but the cocktail of young coconut juice that we were given to enjoy on the boat ride, diminished my desire for more coconut products.
Back on the boat we continued our journey down a small canal with our skipper occasionally diving overboard into the murky water to clear the propellers of debris. Eventually we came at a large bridge that signified that we had arrived at a village. Pulling into the village, Kylie and I left the boat and walked up to the bridge. Binh was showing us a tamarind tree, when all of a sudden I felt someone pinch my bottom from behind. Turning around to give the culprit a piece of my mind, all I could see was a small elderly woman grinning up at me. Apparently I had a nice tush and according to Binh, she was just showing her appreciation as this was a gesture commonly used in Vietnam!
Beware of the arse grabbing granny!, Mekong Delta cruise – Vietnam Culinary Discovery
As we continued walking into the village, we visited another small business where some women were weaving mats from reeds that have grown along the Mekong and then dried. The mats are commonly used in houses as relief from the constant heat. Outside the workshop, a tuk tuk was waiting for us to drive us to our special lunch destination.
I was so excited to be on a tuk tuk that I sat right up the front. The driver put his foot down and I couldn’t help enjoying the feeling of the wind rushing by my face. Flying through the village and towards the rice paddy fields, we suddenly veered onto a small path in a field and sped into the vegetation where we eventually arrived at another small village where we would be having lunch.
Kylie and I arrived at a large outdoor dining area where we were seated and immediately treated to a banquet lunch that had been prepared from local produce. Our first course was a delicious tasting fried, crispy crab followed by chicken and sweet corn soup. Shortly thereafter, a very interesting looking local Elephant Ear fish arrived at our table where it took centre stage until someone came to our table and started to prepare rice paper rolls for us with the filleted fish. The fish, which is similar to grouper was moist and extremely tasty. I was thinking that the fish was the main course, but shortly thereafter we were served cooked prawns with a special spice mix. I’m constantly amazed by the hospitality and quality and quantity of food offered to us. A huge dish of lemongrass chicken cooked in the claypot, with rice and stir fried morning glory was the next course. Despite the heat of the day, a hot meal was welcome with tender chicken falling apart and subtle hints of lemongrass flavour. Thankfully, fresh fruit was the last dish to cleanse the palate and finish off the meal.
Village lunch, Mekong Delta cruise – Vietnam Culinary Discovery
Village lunch, Mekong Delta cruise – Vietnam Culinary Discovery
Village lunch, Mekong Delta cruise – Vietnam Culinary Discovery
Elephant Ear Fish – Village lunch, Mekong Delta cruise – Vietnam Culinary Discovery
Village lunch, Mekong Delta cruise – Vietnam Culinary Discovery
Village lunch, Mekong Delta cruise – Vietnam Culinary Discovery
Village lunch, Mekong Delta cruise – Vietnam Culinary Discovery
Lemongrass chicken in claypot – Village lunch, Mekong Delta cruise – Vietnam Culinary Discovery
Lemongrass chicken in claypot – Village lunch, Mekong Delta cruise – Vietnam Culinary Discovery
Village lunch, Mekong Delta cruise – Vietnam Culinary Discovery
Funnily enough, our boat was waiting for us right behind the restaurant, and so we started the journey back along the river to rendezvous with our car. We start the slow journey back to HCMC and arrive back at our hotel in the late afternoon but with plenty of daylight still left in the day to get acquainted with the Western-style shopping centres and the stylish souvenir shops along the famous Dong Khoi Street. There is only so much shopping two girls can handle, and somewhere throughout our wanderings Kylie and I found a great little wine bar to rest our weary legs and enjoy a happy hour beverage. The Argentinean chardonnay on the specials list was excellent for only 60,000 VND ($3.60 AUD) per glass and put paid to the notion that wine is too expensive to enjoy in Asia. I recommend checking out “Wine Bar 38”.
Travel Indochina provide a great brochure of culinary discoveries in Ho Chi Minh City and with the freedom to chose our own evening entertainment, Kylie and I thought that we would try “Lemongrass” for dinner which was just around the corner from the wine bar. The previous evening the restaurant was quiet, however on this evening it was extremely busy which is always a good sign. Set in an old French colonial building, Lemongrass seems to be a popular destination for large tour groups and so we followed suit and ordered one of the set menu’s with a number of local specialties that we hadn’t yet tried in Vietnam such as lotus stem salad. The food was good and plentiful although the restaurant is primarily catering for the tourist market and is priced accordingly.
I honestly thought that when I booked my trip to Vietnam, that the visit to Halong Bay was going to be the highlight but little did I know that a journey to the Mekong Delta would be so memorable and fun, arse pinching and all. This day was indeed my favourite day of the whole tour.
Disclaimer: All entries regarding the Vietnam Culinary Discovery tour within this blog reflect my own personal insights and experiences throughout my holiday and I was solely responsible for meeting all travel expenses incurred.
bonjourchickie 