Ferrovia, Pascoe Vale

The Western suburbs of Melbourne is a melting pot of diversity, cuisines and cultures that often draws derision and unmerited criticism from those who live elsewhere. I often joke (and probably unfairly) that I need to wear my kevlar vest whenever I go and take a trip out to the “Wild West”. Yet every time I find myself out west, where most of my colleagues and friends prefer to live, I always enjoy seeing tree lined streets in and out of season, beautifully renovated homes, new and exotic places to eat and areas that I would like to take time and explore further.

It’s been a while since I’ve been able to catch up with my friends Mez and Oz, who live in the Pascoe Vale area. Oz, who would have to be my chief encourager of my food and wine adventures, suggested that we should try their local café, Ferrovia for a Saturday breakfast.

Ferrovia is located approximately 50 metres from the Pascoe Vale train station. The café is laidback, unpretentious and very popular with the locals. Looks can be deceiving as the interior is narrow and cosy with no more than half a dozen tables inside and counter seating along the front window, and a courtyard area out the back. There was a constant stream of people popping in for coffee, meals, cakes and pastries as well as the cured meats, cheeses and other gourmet items also available for purchase.

My latte was first rate and all too easy to drink. Ferrovia takes enormous pride in the art of coffee making with their baristas having garnered their experience in busy cafés in Italy prior to being ensconced behind the industrial-sized coffee machine behind the bar. Although the coffee was fantastic, I’m not entirely convinced I would be so adventurous as to trade the wonders of Italy for downtown Pascoe Vale.

The breakfast menu was simple and the options appeared to be hearty with a substantial focus on dishes created with eggs.

Great minds think alike so Oz and I selected the Sweet Corn and Polenta Fritters with poached free-range eggs, sautéed baby spinach, horseradish sour cream and bacon while Mez opted for the Breakfast Bruchetta with avocado, tomato, Spanish onion, served on bread topped with poached free-range eggs and goats chevre (not pictured).

After taking our order, the waitress laid out the napkins and cutlery we were each given a large wooden handled knife with a blade that would rival that of Crocodile Dundee. I like my eggs poached hard but I didn’t realise I would need to be equipped with my own sword to get through breakfast. Wild West indeed!

Sweet Corn & Polenta Fritters with poached free-range eggs, sautéed baby spinach, horseradish sour cream and bacon - Ferrovia, Pascoe Vale
Sweet Corn & Polenta Fritters with poached free-range eggs, sautéed baby spinach, horseradish sour cream and bacon – Ferrovia, Pascoe Vale

We didn’t wait too long for breakfast and because I prefer my eggs hard poached it inevitably adds a little extra cooking time to my meal, but always worth the wait in my opinion. Some places I go to for breakfast tend to ignore my request, but in this case my eggs were cooked to my liking. The serving of bacon was generous and I enjoyed the way it was cooked however some might take issue with the lack of crispiness it delivered. The baby spinach was vibrant and just cooked, providing some much needed colour and another textural element to the dish.

The polenta and corn fritters were quite sizeable with chunky pieces of red pepper and corn kernels mixed throughout. Oz and I thought that perhaps the red pepper could have been diced a bit more finely as their size meant that their flavour tended to overshadow the sweetness of the corn. The talking point of the dish was the horseradish sour cream which was delicious, although a little too creamy as it didn’t have the sharp pungent bite that horseradish normally delivers. The vast quantity of polenta on the plate meant that the fritters were a little dry in places, and the horseradish cream was a much needed and tasty accompaniment which helped to provide a little extra moisture when required.

Mez’s dish looked colourful but the bruschetta mixture noticeably lacked the promised avocado and looked somewhat lost on the big white plate that it was served on. The cold bruschetta mingled with the freshly poached egg, which was considerably warmer, created a temperature differential that most of our mouths would find hard to appreciate.

The promised rain began to set in and suddenly the café became extremely busy as those eating out in the courtyard came inside for shelter and attempted to find a space to finish their breakfast. Full to the brim and having enjoyed our little catch-up, it was time for us to let the next wave of diners in to savour the delights of Ferrovia.

Ferrovia Deli & Fine Foods on Urbanspoon

Tall Timber, Prahran

After three days of continual dark grey skies, cold winds and drizzling rain, the thought of heading out outside for breakfast on Saturday morning felt more like agony than an adventure. Bracing myself for another miserable day, I could not believe my eyes as I wound back the bedroom blinds and stared into brilliant sunshine and clear blue skies. What a glorious day! I suddenly felt invigorated again, ready to stretch my legs and looking forward to going somewhere new for breakfast.

I must admit that in the area where I live, I’m relatively familiar with cafés and restaurants along the length and breadth of Chapel Street, but beyond its borders is a territory waiting to be discovered. With the warmth of the sun on my back, I started walking towards Chapel Street and then along Commercial Road, away from the Prahran Markets, past the busy construction site for a new apartment development, leaving the home improvement and interior decorator centres in my wake, and just when I could see Punt Road in my sights, I discovered “Tall Timber”.

The café is positioned on a street corner, with large windows along the front and sides providing lots of natural light into the main dining area. With polished concrete floors, high ceilings, white brick walls, dark grey Vienna café chairs doubling as furniture and wall art, track lighting and natural timber accents, the modern interior accentuated the light and perception of space.

Tall Timber is extremely popular and seems like the place to be. I was concerned for a moment or two when I walked in as to whether I would I get a seat, given that the inside communal table was full and there already seemed to be several groups of people also waiting for tables and seats to become available.

Thankfully there was room outside in the courtyard area which gave me another opportunity to enjoy the sunshine. I was expecting to sit on my own, however coming out through the back of the café is another large communal dining table that is almost the length of the courtyard, with market umbrellas providing shelter and a beautiful herb and vegetable garden creating an exotic and colourful centrepiece.

The menu at Tall Timber differs from others with its emphasis on superfoods such as goji, kale, quinoa throughout its breakfast dishes. My friends like to comment on my strong preference for sweet dishes over savoury, and while I was tempted when I saw House made banana and pistachio bread with espresso mascarpone, my eyes kept reading over the description of the Timber Benedict and within three minutes of being seated, I had ordered.

With such a busy enterprise and tables or covers constantly turning over in short periods of time, the quality and quantity of service given is spot on. I got a little kick of being called “Ma’am” when I sat down and then again when my coffee was delivered. My dish seemed to take a little bit longer than most others at the table and while I didn’t mind, the person who took my order, took the time to let me know what was happening in the kitchen and when I could expect my meal.

My skinny latte was delicious with a sweet creaminess that made it all too easy to disappear in two or three gulps, so another coffee was promptly ordered and delivered whilst I waited patiently for breakfast to be served. As I was surrounded by beautiful young people, mostly wearing lycra and eating delicious super healthy food, I started to wonder what had possessed me to order slow cooked pork for breakfast. The person on my immediate right ordered the Sauteed kale, asparagus, green beans with poached eggs, almonds & goats curd on quinoa loaf and it really looked fabulous and vibrant, probably what I should be eating on a Saturday morning. But after three big sessions of Body Pump during the week (hello Naomi!), my café outings have always been about trying dishes that I don’t eat at home, celebrating the end of another working week, and generally enjoying life, so bring on the carbs!

Timber Benedict with slow cooked pork shoulder, poached eggs and apple cider hollandaise - Tall Timber, Prahran
Timber Benedict with slow cooked pork shoulder, poached eggs and apple cider hollandaise – Tall Timber, Prahran

When my breakfast arrived, it looked sensational and I was extremely pleased with what I had ordered. While the slow cooked pork didn’t melt in your mouth, similarly it wasn’t dry and had small portions of crispy and crunchy meat throughout to give texture and additional flavour. My eggs were expertly poached to my liking with hints of the silky and slightly sweet apple cider hollandaise covering it to add another level of deliciousness to the mix. The wow factor on the plate was actually the finely julienned green apple which gave the dish a fruity, sweet component that naturally complements pork. There was also a small drizzle of runny honey over the eggs and pork to bring all the flavours together. With all the agonising of whether to have sweet or savoury for breakfast, this dish melded these two elements perfectly so that each mouthful was balanced in flavour. It was definitely worth the small wait and a great reward at the end of a morning walk in the sunshine.

In the end the only regret was forgetting to bring my sunglasses!

Tall Timber on Urbanspoon

 

Mikla Restaurant, Istanbul, Turkey

After I had posted my impromptu degustation adventures at the Istanbul Culinary Institute on Facebook, my friend Paul recommended that I should also try Mikla. I promptly started researching where Mikla was located, and was pleased to find it was very close to where I was staying.

The next day, I went to the Marmara Pera hotel to make a dinner reservation for my return stay in Istanbul, however as it was a Sunday, the restaurant was closed and unable to take bookings at that point in time. The hotel staff recommended that I come back the next day. Unfortunately I was about to depart for a thirteen day tour of Turkey, so that suggestion wasn’t practicable however I was given an email address to request my preferred date and time for dinner at Mikla. The next day I wrote an email, however I did not receive a reply. I wrote again the following week, and still no reply. By this time, my tour had nearly finished and I had arrived back in Istanbul and at the same hotel I had stayed previously. When I had a spare moment, I walked back to the Marmara Pera hotel and made another request for a dinner reservation. My preferred dining option was for the Saturday night, which would be my last night in Istanbul. But of course, despite my best efforts to secure a table for that evening, the restaurant was fully booked. Thankfully, fortune was on my side and there was one table available which would allow me to dine the next evening. There was just one slight problem … I was also doing a gourmet food and market tour the next day. Ignoring the pain in my stomach, I decided to accept the booking.

The following evening, making my way into the lift to take me to the top floor of the hotel, a huge wave of excitement started to well up inside of me. Upon arrival I was escorted into the dining room with a modern and contemporary elegance, and to a table with beautiful night time views of the Golden Horn and the Blue Mosque in my line of sight.

Mikla Restaurant, Istanbul, Turkey
Mikla Restaurant, Istanbul, Turkey

Looking at the menu, there were various dining options available including a three course prix fixe à la carte menu for 160 TL (AUD $80) and a seven course tasting or degustation menu for 240 TL (AUD $120) with six glasses of matching wines for an additional 120 TL (AUD $60). Despite the effort in securing a table for the evening, the thought of eating seven dishes was not going to be a pleasant or enjoyable experience.

I decided to compromise and select the three course dinner option which would allow me to select my own dishes for each course, and I could use the degustation menu as a guide. The added advantage with the prix fixe à la carte menu, is the opportunity to enjoy three glasses of wine that are matched to my selected courses for 70 TL (AUD $35), which was excellent value in my opinion.

The seven course tasting menu comprised of the following dishes:

  • Vegetables & Zeytinyağlı – Zeytinyağlı, Raw and Other Vegetables
  • Balık Ekmek – Crispy Hamsi, Olive Oil Bread, Lemon
  • Dried Tenderloin & Humus – Salted and Dried Beef Tenderloin, Humus (sic), Antep ‘Birdshit’ Paste
  • Grouper – Slow Cooked Grouper, Sunchokes, Green Lentil, Whole Wheat Erişte, Halhali Olives, Chive-Fig Vinaigrette
  • Lamb Shank – Trakya Kıvırcık Lamb Shank, Smoked Eggplant, Stew of Kayseri Sucuk & White Bean
  • Cheese & Honey – Anatolian Raw Milk Cheese & Honey
  • Pumpkin – Crunchy Candied Pumpkin, Antep ‘Birdshit’ Ice Cream, Sesame Paste, Grape Molasses

Birdshit! I could count three dishes on the entire menu that had a reference to that word. When my waiter came over to ask if I had any questions about the menu, I bravely asked what it meant and discovered that it was a pistachio mixture or paste. Interesting.

Salted and Dried Beef Tenderloin, Humus, Antep ‘Birdshit’ Paste - Mikla, Istanbul, Turkey
Salted and Dried Beef Tenderloin, Humus, Antep ‘Birdshit’ Paste – Mikla, Istanbul, Turkey

My first selection from the menu was the Dried Tenderloin & Humus. To quote my friend Paul, Turkish wines are a revelation! They are indeed. While I was waiting for my meal, my matched wine was presented and poured – a glass of Plato, 2011 Kalecik Karasi, which proudly displayed a medallion on the bottle announcing that it had scored 90 points at the 2012 Master of Wine (Istanbul). A smooth, dry, medium-bodied red wine with hints of chocolate on the nose. Kalecik Karasi is a Turkish grape variety, which means “black from the small castle” and comes from Aegean wine region of Denizli.

The entrée was delicious but had an interesting presentation. The rocket and other leaf served on the plate looked somewhat out of place with the other elements of the dish, particularly as it was bitter to taste. The birdshit paste was indeed a finely ground pistachio pesto, and did resemble fresh bird dropping when smeared across the white plate. The hummus was a slightly red colour with a creamy texture and went well with the thick cut beef medallions, which were delicious and easy to cut. They were not too salty and looked fresh and full of flavour.

Slow Cooked Grouper, Sun Chokes, Whole Wheat Erişte, Halhali Olives, Chive-Fig Vinaigrette - Mikla, Istanbul, Turkey
Slow Cooked Grouper, Sun Chokes, Whole Wheat Erişte, Halhali Olives, Chive-Fig Vinaigrette – Mikla, Istanbul, Turkey

Those who know me well, know that I dearly love lamb shanks and I would certainly proclaim that smoked eggplant is one of my favourite things, but I was looking for a lighter option and something that is a little less familiar and so I chose Grouper for my next course.

The wine match was an Anfora 2010 Chardonnay Reserve again from the Denizli region, near Pamukkale in Turkey. A beautiful golden yellow colour, the wine was served chilled, and had a glorious bouquet on the nose. I kept thinking that this was one of those wines where you wish you could bottle the perfume and savour it again and again. It smelt of honey, pears, roasted nuts and the toasty flavours of French Oak, indeed an excellent match for the thickness and rich flavour of the fish. This wine regularly features on the best Turkish wine lists.

A lovely tasting meal with a myriad of ingredients and flavours working well together. Chives and fresh lemon zest on top of the grouper, thick green olives in a sauce thickened by thin strips of pasta (or eriste) and the beautiful flavour of fresh dill, which is a staple ingredient of most Turkish cuisine.

İhsangazi Siyez Bulghur Ice Cream, Confit Malatya Apricots - Mikla, Istanbul, Turkey
İhsangazi Siyez Bulghur Ice Cream, Confit Malatya Apricots – Mikla, Istanbul, Turkey

And finally the dessert course. The dessert selection on the tasting menu didn’t appeal as I had indulged in cheese and candied pumpkin on my food tour earlier in the day, so I opted for the healthier sounding option of Apricot & Bulghur which consisted of İhsangazi Siyez Bulghur Ice Cream and Confit Malatya Apricots.

The apricots were fresh and had a wonderful natural sweetness. From their slightly brown colour, you could tell they were preservative free with the confit cooking method helping to soften their texture and retain their moisture. The ice cream was served on a bed of finely crushed pistachios which added a little extra crunch and flavour, to the fine granules of burghul wheat in the creamy mixture. It was a lovely dessert and I’m glad I chose a dish that was elegant in its simplicity and taste.

The matched wine was a Doluca Safir 2011 Semi-Sweet White Wine, again from the Aegean region and made from Muscat grapes. Sweet to taste, the wine had hints of lime and lychees on the nose and was pale lemon in colour and was another excellent choice.

I enjoyed my dining experience at Mikla and am glad that I had the opportunity to enjoy a modern interpretation of Turkish cuisine, complimented with a selection of beautiful award-winning Turkish wines from the Aegean region and outstanding views of Istanbul. Thanks for the tip Paul!

http://www.miklarestaurant.com/en