Lolo and Wren, Brunswick West

After last week’s impromptu adventure on the No. 55 tram, I decided that the Brunswick area was now my new go-to destination for breakfast. Surfing my Urbanspoon app for places to eat, I couldn’t contain my excitement when I saw that Lolo and Wren was located near one of the tram stops on the same route. I can’t quite remember when I first read about this café but it has definitely been on the “must visit” list for a very long time.

Walking down Albion Street, I almost stumbled upon my intended destination when I saw a group of people eating outside a residential apartment building and then I noticed the blackboard sign outside. The café was extremely busy when I walked inside, but thankfully a table had been vacated just as I arrived. Despite the unusual location, the café does seem to be a popular destination, and in no time there were a few more people waiting for a place to become available.

The menu is intriguing to say the least and it’s always refreshing to see different offerings or interpretations of breakfast items on order, which included two full pages of original and mouth-watering dishes. You know that you are in the right place when “Patatas Bravas” is readily available as a side dish for breakfast! Despite the delectable sounding sliders and burgers on offer, I kept to the classic dishes and found myself ordering the Brioche French Toast “St Clements”.

“Five Senses” coffee blends are quickly becoming my favourites, and the quality of the roasted beans in the house blend was evident on the first sip of my skinny latte. The creamy texture, rich aroma and slightly sweet finish was delicious and well worth traversing across Melbourne for.

Brioche French Toast "St Clements" with lemon curd, fresh orange, ricotta, candied zest, raspberry compote, baby basil and burnt orange syrup - Lolo and Wren, Brunswick West
Brioche French Toast “St Clements” with lemon curd, fresh orange, ricotta, candied zest, raspberry compote, baby basil and burnt orange syrup – Lolo and Wren, Brunswick West

Trying to make sense of what “St Clements” meant in the description of the dish I had ordered, all I could think of was the line in the age-old nursery rhyme, “Oranges and lemons, Say the bells of St. Clement’s”. Certainly the description on the menu seemed to support that assertion. With lemon curd, fresh orange, ricotta, candied zest, raspberry compote, baby basil and burnt orange syrup adorning the French toast, there was a strong citrus theme.

My French toast looked spectacular when it arrived, with so many delicious elements on the plate it was difficult to know where to start. The thick-textured dollop of lemon curd looked inviting so I started there. With almost a custard-like consistency, the curd had a tart, zesty flavour and to my mind, was the highlight of the dish. The fruit and the fresh ricotta were also scrumptious when paired with the soft brioche, providing lots of flavour but the burnt orange syrup took the dish to another level with its caramelised intensity and added moisture. Thankfully the slices of brioche toast were on the smaller side of the equation, which meant that overall the dish wasn’t too substantial and much more enjoyable.

Despite the unpretentious surroundings and unique location, the coffee and food are well deserving of all the accolades I keep reading about. Now that I know how easy it is to get there, a second visit to sample those patatas bravas is definitely on the cards.

Lolo and Wren on Urbanspoon

Albert Street Food & Wine, Brunswick

It’s the start of a three-day long weekend, the warmer weather continues and with the promise of clear blue skies, it’s a perfect day to explore new food destinations. I’ve decided to take the number 8 tram which runs past my street, and journeys through the city CBD and northwards towards Brunswick and explore an area that’s relatively new to me. Brunswick is a vibrant and eclectic mix of diverse ethnicities, cultures and foods to match.

I jumped off the tram at the corner of Lygon and Albert Streets and headed west towards Sydney Road. On the corner of Albert Street and Sydney Road, situated in an old bank building, is “Albert Street Food & Wine”. The latest venture by Philippa Sibley, primarily known for her reputation as a the Queen of Desserts, is also open for breakfast!

Walking into a well designed and aesthetically stunning room, the maitre d chose the best table in the restaurant for me (in the sunny corner by the door) and took my coffee and water order. The interior of the restaurant was stunning and my heart skipped a beat at the sight of the wine cellar and charcuterie cabinet in the middle of the restaurant.

Albert Street Food & Wine, Brunswick
Albert Street Food & Wine, Brunswick

The breakfast menu was simple and refined with only several options to from, which from my point of view, made my choice of breakfast somewhat easier. Easier to take a risk and try something new.  I chose the “63 degree eggs, baby leeks, brioche crumbs and smoked salmon”.

Big risk! You might be aware that I don’t like runny egg yolk but I didn’t want to change the main attraction of the dish. There was a definitive “wow” factor when breakfast arrived at my table.

63 degree eggs, baby leeks, brioche crumbs, smoked salmon - Albert Street Food & Wine, Brunswick
63 degree eggs, baby leeks, brioche crumbs, smoked salmon – Albert Street Food & Wine, Brunswick

When the photography duties were dispensed with, I started with the leek and brioche mixture. The brioche crumbs were relatively large and melted in your mouth with the sweetness of the leek and melted cheese mixture. The salmon was simple and delicious and a perfect foil for the leeks. To my mind, the leek and brioche were the heroes of the dish, but I was a little scared of eating the wobbly eggs. But eat I did … they tasted organic (trust me, I grew up on a healthy diet of free range eggs) but I couldn’t say definitively that I would be championing the 63 degree movement from this moment forward.

Now an observation about the service. When I first arrived, there were four different people attending to me within the space of ten minutes: the maitre d to escort me to the table and hand me the menu; one person to soundlessly deposit a glass of water; one person to take my breakfast order and the barista to personally deliver my coffee order, all with differing degrees of happiness and joy.

Breakfast service is from 8.00 am to 11.15 am. At 11.00 am, one member of the morning service staff was advising various tables, although surprisingly not mine, and reminding the clientele that the table was required for lunch service at midday. Sitting at my table in the corner and eager to order another coffee, I was thoroughly ignored while there was a flurry of activity to set the tables for lunch. The table next to me was set for the next service at 11.05am and at no time did that particular person look my way to clear my table or ask if I needed anything further. Leaving the premises, I was very surprised to not see a single soul on the street queueing up to get into restaurant at 11.15am.

Albert Street Food & Wine, Brunswick
Albert Street Food & Wine, Brunswick