Melbourne

Small Victories, Carlton North

~ culinaldi ~ 2 Comments

I look forward to reading Epicure in The Age every Tuesday morning whilst eating my breakfast before work. This week the “Good Food Under $30” guide was released and there was an article on the best of Melbourne’s bargain dining. The winner of the “Breakfast Spot of the Year” category was Small Victories in Carlton North. I went straight to Google, looked up the Rathdowne Street address and was extremely pleased to find that the number 8 tram route went through that area. I’ve been thinking that as I live along this tram route which travels between Toorak to Brunswick, that I was going to use it as a way of exploring new food and breakfast destinations.

Leaving home on Saturday morning, I walked to South Yarra train station and tram stop. There was a train to Melbourne Central leaving in a couple of minutes, where I could also catch the number 8 tram heading north, or I could catch the number 8 tram from South Yarra station and travel to Carlton North. Huge mistake! With the Grand Prix in Melbourne this weekend, tram travel into the city has been disrupted. After only ten minutes on the tram, all passengers had to get off and wait for a special shuttle tram to come along that would ferry passengers into the city and terminate at Melbourne Central. After a couple of minutes wait, I boarded another tram and eventually arrived at Melbourne Central. Again all passengers had to disembark and cross over the intersection to a temporary tram stop to pick up the northbound number 8 tram. When the tram arrived, I got on and sat down. Another ten minutes later, the tram stopped at the Melbourne Uni Carlton terminus and everybody was asked to get off again. I don’t give up easily, but I did start to wonder whether I should keep going or find another cafe and try again another day. With the next tram arriving in nine minutes, I set off on foot in the wind and the rain on my own “Amazing Race” adventure, determined to beat Yarra Trams.

When I head off for breakfast each week, I am always a little fearful that there would be a queue to get a table and I won’t be able to get in. An hour after I have left home, I’ve finally arrived in beautiful Rathdowne Village in Carlton North and there are several groups of people outside waiting to be seated for breakfast. Walking inside, I’m told there are no tables but I’m welcome to sit at the bar. Small victories indeed – there are benefits to doing things solo.

Feeling travel-worn, I take my place at the counter and order my coffee. The cafe is warm, cosy and extremely busy. The menu is comprehensive with eggs cooked in any style on toast with a broad selection of gourmet sides to choose from as an accompaniment, or on its own. There is a baked egg section with three beautifully sounding dishes but after my harrowing journey, I felt justified ordering from the sweet section on the menu. No French toast or pancakes, but the “warm pistachio loaf, yoghurt mousse, watermelon, sour cherries and berries” sounded perfect.

Perched at the bar, I realise that I’m sitting in front of the cash register and there are people who are occasionally reaching over the top of me or shoving me aside trying to settle their bills. Thankfully I didn’t have too long to wait until breakfast arrived.

Warm pistachio loaf, yoghurt mousse, blood plums, sour cherry and berries - Small Victories, Carlton North
Warm pistachio loaf, yoghurt mousse, blood plums, sour cherry and berries – Small Victories, Carlton North

Breakfast was beautifully presented and I was surprised at the generous brick-sized portions of pistachio loaf on the plate. Using seasonal produce, the watermelon had been replaced with rich, ruby red blood plums which were lightly cooked. The pistachio loaf was moist with hints of spice and delicious with the fluffy textured vanilla yoghurt mousse. The sour cherry jam substance underneath was rich and thick to counterbalance the mousse and the fresh berries. The baby mint leaves were ideal to offset the sweetness of the strawberries and spiced cake. My only gripe was that there was just enough berry, plum and yoghurt mixture to enjoy with one brick of pistachio loaf. Just in the nick of time, my skinny latte arrived to help me devour the other portion.

Well satisfied and content, I reached into my handbag to pull out my purse to settle the bill. My handbag is nicknamed “The Tardis” as it’s a lot bigger on the inside than to the naked eye. Fumbling around, I couldn’t feel my patent leather purse. Trying not to panic, I had started to pull things out and still no purse. I had went to see “Henry 4” at the theatre the previous evening, where Ted Baillieu knocked my handbag off my shoulder trying to get past in the foyer, but I didn’t think he was that down on his luck to make off with my wallet. Now I was scared. I didn’t have any money with me; I’m in front of the cash register and I had no idea where my purse had gone. I had a quiet word with the person at the cash register and explained that I couldn’t find my purse, but I could pay with mobile banking or give my details and return later with my payment. The lovely owner thought I looked familiar and said that would be fine.

I had one hour until my next appointment, so I walked speedily to the tram spot and miraculously, the number 8 tram heading towards the city was only seconds away. With the Amazing Race back on again, I got to Melbourne Central train station, found a train waiting for me at my platform and arrived at South Yarra train station in record timing. Back in my apartment, my purse wasn’t visible. Shakily, I got down on my hands and knees and found that my shiny black wallet and my sunglasses had tried to run off together during the night and were hiding themselves underneath my bed. Letting the relief wash over me, I gathered up my belongings and headed back to the train station to try to repeat the journey into the city in record time.

Mid afternoon and starting to feel hungry, I jumped back on the tram and went back to Small Victories to repay my breakfast debt. Providing evidence of funds and capacity to pay, I went and sat in the front window and ordered the spiced slow roasted lamb.

Spiced Slow Roast Poon Boon Lamb, Chickpeas, Spinach, Ewes Milk Feta, Herbs and Dukkah - Small Victories, Carlton North
Spiced Slow Roast Poon Boon Lamb, Chickpeas, Spinach, Ewes Milk Feta, Herbs and Dukkah – Small Victories, Carlton North

There are no words available to say how amazing this warm salad is. The tender lamb, topped with fresh lemon zest, crunchy dukkah, soft cooked chickpeas, wilted spinach and smooth creamy feta was the perfect way to end a crazy day. And the best bit? The fabulous food that I had enjoyed for breakfast and lunch cost just over $30. Small Victories well deserved the mention and award for best breakfast in the “Good Food Under $30” guide. I might have outstayed my welcome at Small Victories, but I’d love to go back and complete the trifecta and have dinner there. I’m very thankful for their understanding and trusting me to come back and settle my debts. As Shakespeare penned – all’s well that ends well.

Albert Street Food & Wine, Brunswick

~ culinaldi ~ Leave a comment

It’s the start of a three-day long weekend, the warmer weather continues and with the promise of clear blue skies, it’s a perfect day to explore new food destinations. I’ve decided to take the number 8 tram which runs past my street, and journeys through the city CBD and northwards towards Brunswick and explore an area that’s relatively new to me. Brunswick is a vibrant and eclectic mix of diverse ethnicities, cultures and foods to match.

I jumped off the tram at the corner of Lygon and Albert Streets and headed west towards Sydney Road. On the corner of Albert Street and Sydney Road, situated in an old bank building, is “Albert Street Food & Wine”. The latest venture by Philippa Sibley, primarily known for her reputation as a the Queen of Desserts, is also open for breakfast!

Walking into a well designed and aesthetically stunning room, the maitre d chose the best table in the restaurant for me (in the sunny corner by the door) and took my coffee and water order. The interior of the restaurant was stunning and my heart skipped a beat at the sight of the wine cellar and charcuterie cabinet in the middle of the restaurant.

Albert Street Food & Wine, Brunswick
Albert Street Food & Wine, Brunswick

The breakfast menu was simple and refined with only several options to from, which from my point of view, made my choice of breakfast somewhat easier. Easier to take a risk and try something new.  I chose the “63 degree eggs, baby leeks, brioche crumbs and smoked salmon”.

Big risk! You might be aware that I don’t like runny egg yolk but I didn’t want to change the main attraction of the dish. There was a definitive “wow” factor when breakfast arrived at my table.

63 degree eggs, baby leeks, brioche crumbs, smoked salmon - Albert Street Food & Wine, Brunswick
63 degree eggs, baby leeks, brioche crumbs, smoked salmon – Albert Street Food & Wine, Brunswick

When the photography duties were dispensed with, I started with the leek and brioche mixture. The brioche crumbs were relatively large and melted in your mouth with the sweetness of the leek and melted cheese mixture. The salmon was simple and delicious and a perfect foil for the leeks. To my mind, the leek and brioche were the heroes of the dish, but I was a little scared of eating the wobbly eggs. But eat I did … they tasted organic (trust me, I grew up on a healthy diet of free range eggs) but I couldn’t say definitively that I would be championing the 63 degree movement from this moment forward.

Now an observation about the service. When I first arrived, there were four different people attending to me within the space of ten minutes: the maitre d to escort me to the table and hand me the menu; one person to soundlessly deposit a glass of water; one person to take my breakfast order and the barista to personally deliver my coffee order, all with differing degrees of happiness and joy.

Breakfast service is from 8.00 am to 11.15 am. At 11.00 am, one member of the morning service staff was advising various tables, although surprisingly not mine, and reminding the clientele that the table was required for lunch service at midday. Sitting at my table in the corner and eager to order another coffee, I was thoroughly ignored while there was a flurry of activity to set the tables for lunch. The table next to me was set for the next service at 11.05am and at no time did that particular person look my way to clear my table or ask if I needed anything further. Leaving the premises, I was very surprised to not see a single soul on the street queueing up to get into restaurant at 11.15am.

Albert Street Food & Wine, Brunswick
Albert Street Food & Wine, Brunswick

Birdman Eating, Fitzroy

~ culinaldi ~ 2 Comments

The pressure is on. Where do I head to on Saturday morning for breakfast? I’ve been a bit complacent over the last few weeks as there have been so many new and wonderful cafes to visit in my local neighbourhood but now I need to get serious about getting out and about and visiting those cafes on my “must do” list. Flicking through the Melbourne Magazine, I see an article on the Birdman Rally held in 1989 and then I mentally recall to mind a cafe in Fitzroy called “Birdman Eating” that had been mentioned to me several months ago.

With a destination in mind, I negotiated a train and a tram to get to Gertrude Street and looked for the cafe. I’m always fearful that there won’t be a table or space for me when I arrive, but I was in luck and found a table inside. A beautiful, old building with stained glass windows, art deco lighting and dark wood panelling and mirrors along the walls, it was exactly where I wanted to be on a warm summer morning.

Eagerly anticipating the breakfast menu, my finely honed radar sense zeroed in on French toast offering on the menu, but then my eyes skipped to the ricotta hotcakes, which is a dish close to my heart and is not always readily available on most cafe menus. The description of the dish was so unique – I’ve seen meat cooked using the confit method but the idea of possibly applying the same process to fruit was mind boggling.

Ricotta hotcakes with confit caramelised banana, peanut butter & maple syrup - Birdman Eating, Fitzroy
Ricotta hotcakes with confit caramelised banana, peanut butter & maple syrup – Birdman Eating, Fitzroy

The first mouthful was of the peanut butter ice-cream mixture on top of the hotcakes and it blew my mind away. Soft and creamy with a distinct but not over-powering peanut butter flavour. The hard part was trying to eat it before it rapidly melted away.

The confit banana still maintained its form, slightly mushy on the outside but firm enough to cut with a knife. The ricotta hotcakes were nice and hot, but not exactly memorable. I couldn’t detect any ricotta in the mixture and felt like I was eating a very crispy pancake but it adequately soaked up the maple syrup, melted ice-cream and banana.

I always save the hard bit to last! The pecan praline was a complete surprise and was a fairly thick shard of toffee but not too hard to break apart into edible bite-size pieces.

The best thing about this dish, and which isn’t really identifiable in the photo because I’ve zoomed in, is that it is not a substantially large dish that prevents you from eating again at lunch time. Bon appetite!