Circolo, Southbank

Quite often I have a destination in mind when I set off for my breakfast adventure every Saturday morning, but I can’t tell you the number of times where somewhere along the journey, I make another café discovery and end up seizing the moment and wind up eating at places I had no initial intention of visiting. I like to plan and am quite decisive but I also like the element of surprise and hint of adventure. Sometimes this can pay off big dividends, leading to wonderful food memories and then there are the few times where I wonder, “Why did I do that?”

On my way to the South Melbourne Market, I decided to take a new route to avoid all the residential apartment building works and by chance ended up walking down Clarke Street. Looking at all the buildings and office spaces in the area, my eyes caught a glimpse of gold decorative art and some beautiful copper pendant lighting through the large floor-to-ceiling windows of a new development. Then I spied some chairs and tables before realising that I was walking past a café – a brand new café with an “OPEN” sign. I threw caution to the wind and thought “Why not?” and walked on in.

It looked as though I was the first customer for the morning and I had my pick of the seating arrangements. The barista behind the counter, looking resplendent in a denim apron with leather trim, looked pleased to see me and gave me a warm morning greeting, as did the young waitress who promptly brought over the breakfast menu. On the way back to the counter, I think she was reminded to take my coffee order and I being on auto-pilot, I gave my usual coffee order for a “large hot skinny latte”. I think I knew I was in big trouble when my request was met with a blank stare and I was asked to repeat my order. One large, hot skinny latte …. please.

Circolo, Southbank
Circolo, Southbank

Another waiter came out from the kitchen into the dining area, also dressed in a tailored denim apron with soft leather trim and wished me pleasant good morning greetings. So at this point, it is just me versus three wait staff. While my coffee order was being processed, I finally had the opportunity to look at the breakfast menu which looked to be fairly stock standard, with a range of egg dishes (Egg on toast, Eggs Benedict, Eggs Florentine, Omelette), pancakes, a Circolo version of a big breakfast, muesli, pastries and French Toast. The menu and the pricing seemed to be out of sync. The “French Toast” option was made with ciabatta and only $5.90. That sounded too good to be true. The “Croissant” was also described as a croissant ciabatta and also priced at $5.90. A croissant ciabatta … that’s a new one. The “Buttermilk Pancakes” were served with Chantilly cream and maple syrup for $12.50 … um, no thanks – that doesn’t even sound appetising. I decided to play it safe and opt for the “Eggs Benedict” – free range poached eggs on English muffins with Virginian ham and Hollandaise sauce. The third highest priced dish on the menu, at $16.50 I made the classic mistake of equating price with quality.

Ready and waiting to order, as the only customer in the café, I had to wait a full ten minutes for the barista to give the waitress a crash course on coffee as he explained all the different types available … which is fine but I am hungry and I am a customer. Once the coffee lesson had finished, the waitress went back to her cutlery-polishing duties so I needed to remind her that I did actually want to order breakfast. I casually placed my order and felt like sliding under the table when my waitress went to the kitchen window and hollered “She wants the Eggs Benedict with her eggs poached hard”. Yep thanks – you got the order right but I’m not sure if the people at the South Melbourne Market actually heard you.

My coffee arrived and to my delight it was exactly what I ordered, served beautifully in a large tumbler. A little on the strong side but quite pleasant nonetheless. The barista came over with the waitress in tow to set my table with napkin and cutlery – obviously I’m being used as a training facility.

Eggs Benedict - Circolo, Southbank
Eggs Benedict – Circolo, Southbank

And then my breakfast arrived. When I read the words “Virginian ham”, I stupidly thought it might be ham off the bone given the price of the dish but sadly it was a couple of cheap ham slices wacked onto a couple of Tip Top English muffins. Unfortunately the abundance of Hollandaise sauce against a white plate made by breakfast look a little insipid. The eggs were hard-poached as requested and the sauce was creamy and silky smooth, but the huge let down was that the English muffins hadn’t been toasted and the moisture from the cooked eggs had made the bread quite soggy. It was edible but “nothing to write home about” as my Dad would say.

I turned a blind eye to the warning signs – new café, staff training-on-the-job, ad hoc menu, only customer – and probably got what I asked for. I was full but hardly satisfied. I walked to the counter and at this point the other waiter decided to get in on the action and process the bill on his flash iPad for my less than satisfactory breakfast experience. I handed over my credit card for payment whereby the waiter then told me that my card had been declined. Yeah … I don’t think so – do it again. You should have seen this guy’s eyes light up when my payment went through. Circolo has all the pretence of a café with all the bells and whistles – fashionable uniforms, nice interiors, state-of-the-art coffee machine and high-tech payment processing equipment – but it just goes to prove that there is no substitute for great service and good food.

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Fandango, North Melbourne

Flopped on the couch after a long week on wintry Friday night and slowly succumbing to a head cold, the last thing I wanted to do was plan my Saturday breakfast escapade. Feeling somewhat miserable and sorry for myself, I just wanted to hibernate away from the world and try to get better but alas, with absolutely no food in the fridge, it was becoming increasingly necessary to find a café that was homely, tranquil and hopefully not too far away from home. Dreaming of all the fresh fruit and vegetables I wanted to buy from the Queen Vic Markets, I started looking for cafés in the North Melbourne area on my Urbanspoon/Zomato app and once captivated by the numerous food photos taken at Fandango, I knew I had a destination.

I hate to admit it but it’s been at least four years since I’ve headed to North Melbourne for breakfast … absolutely shocking, I know. Looking at all the new and busy cafés as the tram rolled along Victoria Street and then into Errol Street, I realised that I really been missing out and made a mental note to come back along this route as soon as I possibly can. Thankfully it was a brisk but sunny, beautiful autumn morning which lifted my spirits considerably and made me feel glad that I felt well enough to enjoy another breakfast adventure. What surprised me the most as I reached my intended destination, was that there were no queues of people waiting (despite the close proximity to Auction Rooms) and once inside, there were only five tables, of which three were empty, so it seemed that my prayers to find somewhere quiet and peaceful had come true.

Fandango really is a step back in time. Sitting with the sunshine on my face near the open window, surrounded by mission brown walls, caramel-coloured floor tiles, macramé plant holders and plush green velour curtains with a resplendent white fringe, I was starting to trip out on childhood memories of eating out with my family in the ‘70s, without even taking any cold and flu medication. Being in such a small space means that your arrival cannot go unnoticed which is great because I had a menu and coffee on its way in less than a minute of being seated.

The menu, also brown in colour, is concise but well presented. The daily specials were leaping out at me in big, bold print from the front page when I opened the menu cover. I must admit the French toast with bacon, whipped Bulgarian feta, grilled tomato and roasted red pepper relish ($18) gave me food for thought, but I wanted something a little more restorative so I chose the other fruit-driven version – French toast with bacon, cinnamon baked apple, maple butter and maple syrup.

More shades of brown came into view as my coffee arrived on its own brown-coloured saucer and complemented by a funky, retro brown sugar dispenser. The coffee is excellent but unfortunately it only comes in one small glass size if you are opting to dine in. But the sad thing is that after I had asked for a super-sized coffee, you would think that the same person who took your coffee order and then promptly swiped away the empty coffee glass a couple of minutes later, might actually ask if you would like another. Alas, no and despite being one of only six people seated inside, they actually didn’t come near my table again. I concede that this may be because I was a little under the weather but it’s an epic fail not to attempt to offer a second cup of coffee.

French toast with bacon, cinnamon baked apple, maple butter and maple syrup - Fandango, North Melbourne
French toast with bacon, cinnamon baked apple, maple butter and maple syrup – Fandango, North Melbourne

Waves of nostalgia washed over me when my breakfast arrived at the table. The plate on which the French Toast was served is the same crockery setting that my grandmother had in her home and I clearly remember helping to collect the Coles stamps for her to buy the whole dinner set, many moons ago. Breakfast looked absolutely spectacular and appeared to represent comfort food in the extreme. Whilst the coffee isn’t super-sized, the French Toast serving actually is. Made from fresh Turkish bread, there were four large pieces on the base of the plate which I made a small dent in.

The baked apple was soft and caramelised, smothered in maple butter and soothing to the soul. The serving of bacon was also very generous and very nicely cooked as well as presented. The handful of snow pea tendrils on the side was a nice accompaniment and helped cut through the richness of the bacon flavour.

A few more people were coming into the café and then being pointed back out around the corner to another area which I think is the courtyard so Fandango is highly regarded as a neighbourhood gem. Indeed, for me Fandango was a great find and filled the brief to find a place that was relaxed with a touch of familiarity and comfort.

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The Grand, Richmond

Last June, a dear friend of mine introduced me to a very special culinary experience at The Grand dining room and afterwards I didn’t hesitate to join their special VIP program. When you sign up as a Grand VIP member, you are entitled to a free six course degustation dinner (with the value of $85) to celebrate the occasion of your birthday. The only stipulation in the deal is to bring one paying guest, so when I received an email from The Grand reminding me that it was that time of year again, I didn’t hesitate to make a reservation.

My friend Vikki was about to depart for a month-long sojourn to Italy so it seemed like a fantastic opportunity to catch up over an Italian-centric menu. The dining room at The Grand is an oasis away from the busy road outside and the constant stream of semi-trailer trucks driving past en route to the Burnley Street freeway access. With white linen tablecloths, walnut Thonet dining chairs, and colourful glass bubble chandeliers you could be forgiven for thinking that you had been transported to Europe.

In order to commence my birthday season, it was quite right that Vikki and I should indulge in the $55 wine match to accompany the evening’s Chef’s menu. Upon being seated, we were encouraged to get the evening rolling with a delicious glass of Adami Garbèl Brut Prosecco NV  from Veneto to enjoy with the marinated olives, assorted bread and the olive oil also produced in Italy.

Whilst still enjoying the Prosecco, the first wine for the evening, the 2013 Monte Tondo Soave Classico was poured in readiness for the first course of Barbabietole con quinoa e mozzarella di bufala (Candied roasted beets with quinoa and buffalo mozzarella). The wine is intensely perfumed with both hints of florals and fruitiness on the nose (we thought maybe orange blossom and white stone fruit) but surprisingly quite soft, smooth and subtle on the palate. Both Vikki and I aren’t huge fans of quinoa and unfortunately we were still not persuaded after tasting our entrée but the lovely wine matched well with the creamy texture of the cheese and sweetness of the roasted beetroot.

The next course was Carpaccio di trota salmonata (Ocean trout cured in berries and citrus with shaved celery) matched with one of my favourite wines, a 2014 Foster e Rocco Rose from Heathcote in Victoria. The fish was cured beautifully and topped with thin strands of celery to balance the texture and provide fresh bursts of flavor. The wine is subtle pink in colour, highly fragrant with hints of red cherries and red apples on the nose yet rich in texture, with a dry and refreshing mouth feel.

The next wine to be served was phenomenal and had me hooked on the first sip. The 2013 Mountadam High Eden Estate Chardonnay was served beautifully chilled, had such a depth of flavor and texture that I think I stopped Vikki in mid-sentence and insisted that she try it. The accompanying dish, Capesante con topinambur ed insalata di finocchio (Seared scallops, Jerusalem artichoke puree, fennel salad) was just as elegant yet more picturesque. The scallops were cooked perfectly with segmented citrus, shaved radish and fennel to complement the puree. The textures and flavours of the dish combined with the wine were outstanding and definitely my favourite course for the evening.

The next course to be served was Caramelle di manzo (Beef caramelle pasta with grana padano and gremolata) matched with the 2013 Roaring Meg (Mt Difficulty) Pinot Noir from Central Otago, New Zealand. The pasta wasn’t as warm as I would have liked it, but I suspect that might have been my fault in taking too many foodie pictures when I should have been eating. Our lovely waitress was extremely generous and trusting by leaving the bottle on the table after pouring our glasses. The pinot had a lovely perfumed blackberry and dark cherry fruit character with subtle hints of spice. The wine had a nice long finish and textured tannins which married well with the soft pasta.

We had almost reached the summit when the full-bodied 2011 Zenato Valpolicella Classico Superiore was served with the main course, Filetto di manzo con verdure (Pan seared Eye Fillet with shallots, celeriac puree, capsicum and eggplant). The eggplant and asparagus had a charred, smoky flavor which was balanced by the earthy tannins in the wine. The Eye Fillet was well cooked and nicely complemented by the nutty flavour of the celeriac puree.

The dessert course was a momentous conclusion to the evening with a generous pouring of the 2013 Punt Road Botrytis Semillon to accompany the Bombolini (Crema pasticcera filled Italian doughnuts with caramel ice cream & honeycomb). The syrupy consistency of the wine with rich flavours of orange and apricot marmalade cut through the crispy, sugarary fried texture of the doughnut and the soft caramel ice cream.

The degustation experience at The Grand was beyond compare and even at full price, $85 for seven courses (if you include the bread and olives) is terrific value for money. Let’s just say that I’m really looking forward to celebrating many more birthdays (mine and others!) in style at The Grand.

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